The Chef: Rashida Holmes
Her Pop-Up: Business Bridgetown Roti, Los Angeles
What She’s Known For: Applying chops acquired at high L.A. eating places to the Caribbean dishes of her childhood. Building vital pop-up buzz, even in a pandemic.
THINK OF THIS salad as a love letter to Los Angeles in springtime. At Bridgetown Roti, chef Rashida Holmes serves dishes marrying the Caribbean flavors she grew up with to the area’s bounty of native produce.
A mixture of smashed cucumbers and sugar snap peas with a jerk-spiced French dressing, Ms. Holmes’s second Slow Food Fast recipe attracts on classes gleaned in a few of L.A.’s high kitchens. For instance, she discovered to smash cucumbers this manner working beside chef Alex Chang on the Exchange (which has since closed), downtown. “It’s a Japanese technique,” she mentioned. “Salting them draws out their water so they can better absorb the seasonings.”
Sugar snap peas are at peak sweetness proper now, and Ms. Holmes considers taking advantage of seasonal components a key takeaway from her years of working in L.A. “I go to the Santa Monica Farmers Market as much as possible,” she mentioned. “Sugar snaps are one of my favorite parts of spring.”
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- 6 Persian cucumbers
- ½ pound sugar snap peas
- ¼ white onion, diced
- 1 scallion, roughly chopped
- 2 cloves garlic
- 1 tablespoon finely chopped contemporary ginger
- 1 teaspoon contemporary thyme leaves
- ⅛ teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
- 1 teaspoon crimson pepper flakes
- 3 entire allspice berries, roughly smashed
- 3 cloves, roughly smashed
- 1½ teaspoons garam masala
- 1 teaspoon cane sugar
- Finely grated zest and juice of two limes
- ½ cup olive oil
- 2 teaspoons sesame seeds
- ⅓ cup roughly chopped contemporary cilantro leaves
- Bring a medium pot of salted water to a boil over excessive warmth.
- Trim ends of cucumbers. Place cucumbers in a plastic bag and use a rolling pin to smash into irregular, large-bite-size items. In an enormous bowl, toss smashed cucumbers with a beneficiant pinch of salt.
- Add snap peas to boiling water and blanch till shiny inexperienced, about 1 minute. Strain and run beneath chilly water to chill. Toss snap peas dry and switch to fridge.
- Make the dressing: In a meals processor or blender, purée onions, scallions, garlic, ginger, thyme, nutmeg, crimson pepper flakes, allspice, cloves, garam masala, sugar, a pinch of salt, lime zest and olive oil till easy. Transfer dressing to a small pot and prepare dinner over medium warmth, stirring constantly, till aromatic, 3-4 minutes. Pour heat dressing right into a small bowl and place in freezer to chill. Once dressing reaches room temperature, after about 7 minutes, stir in lime juice and salt to style.
- Drain cucumbers and pat dry. Clean bowl and return cucumbers to it. Add snap peas and toss in cooled dressing to flippantly coat. Top with sesame seeds and cilantro leaves.
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—Kitty Greenwald is a chef, meals author and the co-author of ‘Slow Fires’ (Clarkson Potter)
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